No. 1 Perfume Spray for Men

 BY Clive Christian

I pondered over the most appropriate way to write a review for “the world’s most expensive perfume” for quite some time. On one hand, Clive Christian’s No. 1 Perfume Spray for Men confronts one with its off-putting and shamelessly ostentatious title. Still, I am willing to overlook the marketing tactics at play and assess the scent on its own merits. The context around the 2001 launch of No. 1 involves a celebrated heritage that extends all the way back to 1872. In 1999, the British perfume house acquired the Crown Perfumery, which allowed the label to use the likeness of the royal crown (the heavy golden crown topper). The tradition of creating luxury perfumes from the most exotic and natural ingredients continues today at Clive Christian, with No. 1 being its most outstanding example of sated decadence, wealth, and curiosity.

No. 1 Perfume Spray for Men (mine is the 50ml bottle, not the 30ml pure perfume) is widely recognized as the world’s most expensive perfume. Whether or not it actually is the priciest fragrance on the market, this slogan has been trumpeted far and wide and there is no turning back now. The company’s own selling-points aside, the fragrance is actually quite sensual and intimate. At its core, No. 1 is an oriental as well as an amber fragrance. While one may immediately think of several dozen fragrances that fit this genre, No. 1 adds some unique twists that are easy on the nose. However, it may not be the twists that make No. 1 so special—to me, it seems to be the way in which the notes are blended into consummate symmetry.

The top notes in No. 1 consist of bergamot, lime, Sicilian mandarin, cardamom, nutmeg, and thyme. The heart notes consist of lily of the valley, rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, and heliotrope. Finally, the base notes consist of cedarwood, sandalwood, vetiver, ambery woods, and vanilla. While the caliber of the component ingredients may be of the utmost quality (in terms of rarity, the jury is still out), it is up to the consumer to decide if a 50ml bottle is worth the $865.00 price tag. Indeed, I have fraternized with my share of people who are quick to purchase something simply for sheer fact that it is the most expensive of its kind available, but I still have a difficult time wrapping my head around how this concept of such expressive opulence would translate to No. 1.

The only other Clive Christian scent I own is 1872 Perfume Spray for Men, which is a spicy-citrus fragrance. Compared to 1872, No. 1 is much more dimensional and much more versatile. My first impressions of No. 1 were, as the marketing team likely intended, wrought with considerable feelings of confidence (perhaps a little danger) and a soupçon of intrigue. At the first whiff of this frag, a characteristically feminine quality emerges (perhaps even an older feminine quality), but not one that would dissuade even the most manly of men from wearing No. 1. The powdery and floral aroma lingers lightly (but with a sense of constancy and resolve that I find charming), but as the scent begins to dry down, the composition melds into a softly blended floral with a touch of vetiver, amber, and spice. Unfortunately, the sillage is nothing short of languorous, but No. 1 remains tight to the skin for many hours, which adds to its intimate ‘come-hither’ quality.

Onto the daunting (but legitimate) question of whether or not Clive Christian’s No. 1 is ‘worth’ the splurge. In my mind, the answer will come down to one’s own dogma concerning ‘value.’ Perhaps to the most sophisticated of noses, one could fear being exposed in the midst of attempting to dupe No. 1 with one of Prada’s (very) similar scents, but this seems like an unlikely scenario. In the real world, however, I cannot help but relegate Clive Christian fragrances to a world in which mega millionaires have become unapologetically blasé toward the value of the dollar. Still, for those who have the funds to play hard, I would bet that a gentleman who is confident in his own skin would put the $800+ toward a new car or a new boat (or personal aircraft or luxury timepiece…). In other words, it would be hard to envision No. 1 awakening an effect so enticing that the surrender of one’s plastic would turn imminent. Customers in this luxury market have seen it all and have done it all. While the draw of the fragrance may be quite deep, soothing, and sensual, No. 1 may very well lack the star power to appeal to those beyond the few who yearn to commemorate their wealth and flaunt their earthly successes.

*Price

1.6 oz. -- $865.00

TOBACCO VANILLE

Eau de Parfum

BY TOM FORD

Tobacco Vanille was the first Private Blend fragrance I ever purchased from Tom Ford. In hindsight, I am thankful that my first experience with the line was catered by such unmitigated profusion. But seriously, had I begun with, oh I don’t know, Black Violet, I may have not been as interested in exploring the full array of Ford’s scents. Although not my favorite of the Private Blends, Tobacco Vanille is certainly up there with a few of the best, and it has certainly found its place in my fragrance catalogue.

Tobacco Vanille is described as, “A modern take on an old-world men's club. A smooth oriental, Tobacco Vanille opens immediately with opulent essences of tobacco leaf and aromatic spice notes. The heart unfolds with creamy tonka bean, tobacco flower, vanilla and cocoa, and finishes with a dry fruit accord enriched with sweet wood sap.”

One moment, Tobacco Vanille strikes me with its punch of ‘good old country living’, but in a type of blow that is quickly unsettled by a conflagration of tobacco leaves fastidiously dunked in the finest (and thickest) of vanilla syrups. In mere moments, I envision myself seated around a campfire toasting marshmallows, but in a campsite closed in by the same urban jungle that had made Tobacco Vanille such a suave and gourmand blend. Proving itself to be greatly dissimilar to countrified living once again, Tobacco Vanille has a point to make, and though this point is perhaps unremittingly dense, the point is made with great haste.

Tobacco Vanille’s two powerhouse ingredients unite to bring about a robust, authoritative, and dominant chord, sending one through a rayless and humid tobacco cellar, only to turn up in the warm and vanilla laden tract of cherries, prunes, and figs. The entire journey almost seems to be a moist one, and it is difficult to descry any smoke apart from the initial flare-up. For this reason, one may be led to believe that this is a year-round fragrance, but it quickly transforms into something tremendously synthetic when any heat is applied. Living in Southern California, I find that this scent sits on the shelf day after day. But when the weather takes a dive, I am eager to grab for this honey-colored brew. If you choose to purchase Tobacco Vanille, go for the smallest bottle offered, and still be prepared to have it a part of your fragrance collection for decades to come.

*Price: 
3.4 oz. - $260.00

8.4 oz. - $465.00

PURPLE PATCHOULI

Eau de Parfum

BY TOM FORD

*2007

*A Shared Fragrance

This fragrance is perhaps most aptly personified by that one ‘abnormal’ family member you unfailingly happen upon at family functions. Purple Patchouli is not merely idiosyncratic, it is outright bizarre (almost encumberingly so), and everyone you go near is going to feel it. Could this be the reason Purple Patchouli was discontinued? Well, that’s for you to decide.

Purple Patchouli is described as a “60's inspired floral woody fragrance opens with an elegant orchid accord and wet, succulent citrus notes. The heart blends noir leather and a signature purple patchouli accord with exotic spices, supported by the intense depth of amber, Peru balsam and vetiver.”

While it may not strike one as strange for an infant to trade moods on a dime, the bipolar aura of Purple Patchouli will thrust anyone of legal age through a sugarland of rotting fruit adorned with the innocently candied bodies of violets plucked during their prime. In mere moments, you will find yourself in a dark and ominous wooded forest sweltering with oriental spices—a bit fleeting, maybe even a bit skanky. Can you see why this might not be right for the office?

While pleasant spices emerge as the fragrance charges onward, the sillage (unfortunately) drops off exponentially. It’s basically like having your cake right in front of you and not being able to eat it…or maybe getting only one bite. “Gross, it’s the wrong flavor of chocolate!”

Purple Patchouli is only “purple” because it contains winsome, bubbly violet notes. Purple Patchouli is only “patchouli” because…well, I’m not entirely sure why. In fact, the patchouli seems few and far between. Instead, the scent goes in an entirely different direction that even its own namesake neglects to acknowledge.

I can’t imagine there are many folks who are sufficiently brooding enough to pull off Purple Patchouli, as its requisite call for ‘effervescent charm’ is sharply enforced. But if there is such a person, this may be the scent for them. Caveat Emptor: Stay clear of Purple Patchouli if you have been dubbed by your peers as a hopeless impulse buyer or you will be caught with your pants around your ankles. This creation requires a lot of thought before you will be ready to dive in head first. The water may not be as deep as it seems.

AMBER ABSOLUTE

Eau de Parfum

BY TOM FORD

*2007

*A Shared Fragrance (Unisex)

My first inclination after smelling Amber Absolute for the first time was to dismiss it as an overbearing and starkly linear amber scent. Nevertheless, I prefer to give each fragrance a fair shake, so I chose to go along for the ride that Amber Absolute had in store for me.

Amber Absolute is described as, “A hallmark Private Blend fragrance. Amber Absolute is a honey-colored scent infused with the purest form of amber, joined by a tenacious refrain of African incense, labdanum, rich woods and a touch of vanilla bean.”

Once you smell Amber Absolute, it is clear that the amber is laden in quite the dash incense. Whether or not this sounds like your cup of tea, it is undeniable that Amber Absolute dons a smoky and shadowy persona, one that may even be fodder for further inquiry as the scent’s bulky and syrupy quality take on parched and sweltering peppers. This scent is extremely dry (and a smidge dusty perhaps) and it will leave even the most cracked terrains feeling somewhat outdone.

Like a few other of Tom Ford’s Private Blends, Amber Absolute has a very lengthy projection. For the most part, what you smell from the opening is what you get. Amber Absolute is…well…absolutely amber, and the fragrance remains in this vein for the extent of its campaign.

Granted, the dry amber does smooth out as the scent progresses—creating a rather rewarding finish to a discourteous opening—but the powerhouse amber stays strong and almost adopts a gourmand quality with splintery scraps of caramel cutting through a fairly unadulterated center.

Your thoughts on Amber Absolute will rest entirely on how you relate to the amber genre. Amber Absolute is on the verge of a one-note fragrance, which may be a disappointment to those shelling out the cash for a Tom Ford Private Blend. However, for an amber fragrance, Amber Absolute is of notable quality. To me, the faint and protracted development of the scent into a gentle and vanillic drydown makes Amber Absolute worth the try. However, I do not have plans to purchase a full size for a while at least, as my tiny roller ball will likely last for months.

*Price: 1.7 oz - $190.00

NOIR DE NOIR

Eau de Parfum

By Tom Ford

*2007

*A Shared Fragrance (Unisex)

*Currently In Production

I am fully prepared to make the audacious claim that this is my absolute favorite scent from Tom Ford—a lofty assertion, I know—but let me explain myself.

Noir de Noir is a very up-market, high-street scent that oozes decadence and pointed affluence. Wearing it almost reminds one of wearing a patent leather tuxedo or some other (almost gratuitously) slick attire along with the latest pair of must have designer shades.

Noir de Noir is described as, “A dark chypre oriental, this scent opens with an earthy mantle of richly woven saffron, black rose and black truffle, with hints of floralcy. Underneath, vanilla, patchouli, oud wood and tree moss soften the intensity, making the scent a sensual experience.”

It would be easy to make the mistake of overapplying Noir de Noir, which will invariably ruin one’s first impression. Furthermore, one may be struck by a certain feminine mystique upon first whiff. Depending on one’s own beliefs on powerful rose notes, however, Noir de Noir might come off as exuding a uniquely masculine sensibility. Either way, it is critical to keep in mind that this scent is all about its rose note.

To me, Noir de Noir lifts off with rose, saffron, and oud. The rose and the saffron are carried forth through a fantasy of smoke and raspberry. Together, these accords bring a sense of mystery that is actually quite tantalizing and strong—one that refuses to compromise by appearing overly synthetic. Searching high and low to decipher the secret to Noir de Noir, one will inevitably lose one’s way as the adumbral accords unfurl into a sensual (and perhaps a tad libidinous) black truffle note.

Noir de Noir is a smooth fragrance in that it has no acute corners or thorny angles. The scent strikes a certain chord that is far from lacking depth or harmony, made consummate with dark caramel, vanilla, tobacco lead, woods, rum, and vanilla that burst forth in a sort of melodic harmony that turns out to be quite the spectacle. I wouldn’t hesitate to place Noir de Noir in a top 10 most alluring or ‘beautiful’ scents. However, if you dislike rose, this is not the right scent for you.

The longevity of Noir de Noir may exceed one’s expectations, as it will certainly tarry about for the better part of six hours. Unlike some of Tom Ford’s Private Blends, Noir de Noir does not sit close to the skin (at first), and it projects rather well. The main drawback, however, is the scent’s versatility. Noir de Noir is certainly not a versatile scent that can translate smoothly from day to night, bedroom to boardroom. Still, this doesn’t detract from this sensational creation, and the ‘to be treasured’ aura of Noir de Noir certainly brings me back for more.

*Price

1.7 oz - $190.00

8.4 oz - $465.00 (pictured)